Executioners modeling help!
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For the full Painting and Modelling rules, visit [url]http://www.druchii.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=27440[/url]
Executioners modeling help!
I am currently assembling and painting in various stages Executioners.
Of all the GW miniatures that I have bought through the last 10 years,
this is the first time that I have run across a problem of this magnitude.
To that, the Executioner models you receive from GW have swords(as great weapons) that only glue together at a single narrow point. It makes for such a fragile connection that even super glue will not hold it together.
So, I bought myself a 40 watt soldering iron and went to town. However, this has turned out to be a disaster for a few models as this is spilling the solder and it's not sticking the model in just the right spots for precision.
I put the druchii community to task on this issue as I am sure that I am not the only one with this particular problem.
Of all the GW miniatures that I have bought through the last 10 years,
this is the first time that I have run across a problem of this magnitude.
To that, the Executioner models you receive from GW have swords(as great weapons) that only glue together at a single narrow point. It makes for such a fragile connection that even super glue will not hold it together.
So, I bought myself a 40 watt soldering iron and went to town. However, this has turned out to be a disaster for a few models as this is spilling the solder and it's not sticking the model in just the right spots for precision.
I put the druchii community to task on this issue as I am sure that I am not the only one with this particular problem.
- Venkh
- Malekith's Best Friend
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you are nowt the only one with this problem. Executioner swords are legendary for their propensity to fall off in betwen games.
If you good at pinning then you can pin them. This requires a very fine drill bit and a measure of skill.
You can also try superglue with a tiny polystyrene chip in the joint. The glue melts the chip and it forms a stronger bond more quickly than normal.
I think those are the only options really. I wouldnt normally consider soldering for the simple reason that Id probably have my eye out in under a minute!
If you good at pinning then you can pin them. This requires a very fine drill bit and a measure of skill.
You can also try superglue with a tiny polystyrene chip in the joint. The glue melts the chip and it forms a stronger bond more quickly than normal.
I think those are the only options really. I wouldnt normally consider soldering for the simple reason that Id probably have my eye out in under a minute!
I do have a pin vice and have pinned many times other models.
However, the sword bit and the hilt are just too darned narrow to actually use the pin vice. The bit is just a bit bigger than needed.
I ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS wear goggles when soldering!!!
AND you always make sure that the solder, iron, and work area are underneath each other. Meaning that the solder is near the bottom and you have cardboard under that. This way if the solder drips as it has the notion to do it drops on the cardboard box NOT on your fingers/legs/hands or any other part of flesh that would be seered!!!
Maybe this chipped superglue thing might work. You know where I can get this special setup glue stick or whatever it is?
However, the sword bit and the hilt are just too darned narrow to actually use the pin vice. The bit is just a bit bigger than needed.
I ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS wear goggles when soldering!!!
AND you always make sure that the solder, iron, and work area are underneath each other. Meaning that the solder is near the bottom and you have cardboard under that. This way if the solder drips as it has the notion to do it drops on the cardboard box NOT on your fingers/legs/hands or any other part of flesh that would be seered!!!
Maybe this chipped superglue thing might work. You know where I can get this special setup glue stick or whatever it is?
A friend of mine said to use Green Stuff. I have used that before but it just clumps together somewhat like the solder. However, at least with the Green Stuff you can shape it while it is wet.
Once it is dry it's hard as a rock. I only have 3 more models that need reinforcing at this point. However, I have really ruined 2 or 3 models to the point I soldered the sword off and then had to resolder it back on... Looks dreadful... Now I have to kit bash it with a skull or something to make it look intentional. I shouldn't have to work to make a model be a model ... You know what I mean?
Once it is dry it's hard as a rock. I only have 3 more models that need reinforcing at this point. However, I have really ruined 2 or 3 models to the point I soldered the sword off and then had to resolder it back on... Looks dreadful... Now I have to kit bash it with a skull or something to make it look intentional. I shouldn't have to work to make a model be a model ... You know what I mean?
- Demetrius
- Malekith's Best Friend
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I use Loctite 401 Instant Adhesive. Not sure where to get it, my dad brings it home from work (hes a fitter and turner). If you can get your hands on it, the Executioners swords will stick on, no problem.
Also, I trick Ive found is filing the area thats going to be glued (before gluing it). This works great for metal models because it gives the glue a rough surface to bond and not a flat surface.
Also, I trick Ive found is filing the area thats going to be glued (before gluing it). This works great for metal models because it gives the glue a rough surface to bond and not a flat surface.
- Parthianshot
- Slave (off the Altar)
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Well I think that I'll try to solder those last 2 or 3 models. I'm shooting at about a 75 percent on getting them close. I just don't think the glue bit will help. All it takes is for that sword to hit just the right spot (or any spot in some cases) for it to snap off. I'll let you know how it goes.
I found a tiny ball of greenstuff sandwiched by copious amounts of superglue did the trick for me.
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Well doesn't it clump together that way.
Greenstuff and superglue just sounds messy.
I actually used green stuff and to get success to put the heads on my 2 War Hydras. Green stuff is great for filling gaps and holding together that which is weak. Executioners fit only one of those criteria. They need to fix a weak spot however there is no gap for it to have some strength...
Well, I think that I'm just really mad or angry at GW for such a lousy model setup.
As for the "P3" pin set? what is that? A specific pin vice or company?
I have several pin bits but even the smallest is just a bit too big to even think of pinning the tiny swords on the executioners..
I'm a bit curious about this particular "name brand" if you will.
Greenstuff and superglue just sounds messy.
I actually used green stuff and to get success to put the heads on my 2 War Hydras. Green stuff is great for filling gaps and holding together that which is weak. Executioners fit only one of those criteria. They need to fix a weak spot however there is no gap for it to have some strength...
Well, I think that I'm just really mad or angry at GW for such a lousy model setup.
As for the "P3" pin set? what is that? A specific pin vice or company?
I have several pin bits but even the smallest is just a bit too big to even think of pinning the tiny swords on the executioners..
I'm a bit curious about this particular "name brand" if you will.
- Masked jackal
- Noble
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I used very small balls of greenstuff, and the only time my Executioners swords have falled off is if I dropped them.
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Privateer Press, the guys who do Warmachine, also do a series of gaming and modeling accessories and tools, including a whole range of pinning sets. They come with 5 brass rods and a drill bit of suitable diameter for them.
Like I said, the smallest set is small enough to fit into the sword blades, but strong enough to hold up under tabletop abuse. I wouldn't recommend drop-testing - the swords themselves aren't all that strong...
Like I said, the smallest set is small enough to fit into the sword blades, but strong enough to hold up under tabletop abuse. I wouldn't recommend drop-testing - the swords themselves aren't all that strong...